Packing Your Bags!
I'm something of a minimalist traveller in the sense that I like to take as little as possible - wherever I go. This is probably easier because I'm a man and I don't feel like I need too many different changes of clothes. In addition, I like to be able to bring things back with me. often bulky stuff, so my packing needs to be carefully balanced.
In India, despite what everyone thinks how you dress definitely counts. I'm not a shorts wearer anyway, so this makes it a bit easier for me. I almost live in polo shirts and cargo pants whilst I'm in India although I'll usually take a couple of long sleeved cotton shirts and a pair of decent shoes just in case I am staying in a good hotel or meeting up with smart Indian friends.
All the guide books will warn against shorts and anything sleeveless: you will be denied entry to some temples and are almost certain to be excluded from Gudwaras and Mosques if you're not properly dressed. The prejudice of shorts as clothing for poor seems to have died out in most places, but its always useful to have a pair of chinos or cargo pants in case.
What I take and the policy of disposability.....
Cargo pants are a godsend, I've got a three or four pairs of tough cotton ones from M&S and they have good sized side pockets and a concealed zip pocket at the hip. Cargo pants come in useful for wandering around urban areas where you don't have to take a small rucksack as you can usually fit a camera and book in the side pockets. I also take tops or shirts that don't cost a lot. Often they're from Primark so if you're struggling for room to bring things home you can leave them in India (believe me the housekeeper will make good use of them). The big no-no is synthetics. They make you sweat and I once travelled with a guy who ended up with infected rashes from wearing synthetic football shirts...be warned.
Buying Clothes in India
Its funny because I often see westerners wandering around in Kurta Pyjama or women in Salwar Kameez and wonder what Indians think of us in traditional clothes. I once went to a wedding in a borrowed Sherwani suit and spent the whole time feeling self conscious. I have a sneaky suspicion that its easier to carry off if you're between 18 and 25, but harder if you're older, particularly for men. On the whole though, good quality light cotton shirts and loose cotton trousers are really cheap and there are shops selling high quality western clothing too, although these tend to not be much cheaper than home. I did once buy a short kurta and some loose cotton trousers to bring home, but have never worn them. In this sense, Indian clothes are a bit like local drinks you love on holiday; they always seem much better abroad and are never the same if you try them at home!
Laundry
One of the reasons you can afford to take less is that even the cheapest hotels or hostels will have some form of laundry service which is useful if you want to pack minimally. A few words of caution though, in rural areas laundry really will be done in the river with basic soaps and dried on the ground or on bushes and trees. For this reason I tend to avoid white jersey (T shirt) type fabrics as if they tend to end up the colour of the water they're washed in and they never come clean again. Similarly, synthetics don't stand up well to traditional washing and can look a bit battered on return. Bigger hotels use commercial machines so its better to wait until you have access to these for anything you truly value. Another thing to watch for is starch, Indians love to starch a nice white shirt and then iron it until its as stiff and shiny as glossy plastic. Not comfortable to wear and it often ruins a good shirt so make sure you give clear instructions if you don't want starch.
Shoes are tougher.... I tend to take a pair of dark trainers for walking and doing the sights, but also usually take a pair of suede desert boots for going out to restaurants or to meet friends. I also take a pair of comfortable leather flip flops in case its just too hot for shoes, but I'd never attempt spending the day in them, particularly if I'm going to be walking any distance.
Toiletries
You need to remember that urban India has plenty of supermarkets and there are lots of recognisable brands. Airports will also have shops in arrival halls, so if you don't want to take much or have forgotten something, you should be OK. Rural are are more difficult, but in fairness, no-one really cares if you look a bit damp or smell a bit sweaty.
One thing you will want to make sure you take is sun cream. I think this is quite a personal thing. I've tried and struggled to get high factor sun block in India outside of big urban areas and its even harder to find recognisable brands with insect repellent. As a consequence I tend to take a fairly big bottle of Boots Soltan (a 200ml bottle should last you 2-3 weeks dependent on the UV factor - I tend to take 50 and still get tanned) with insect repellent. This really seems to work for me although I do take a small can of 50% Deet for my feet and/or legs.
As insects are drawn to scented products, I also use Boots Expert odourless anti-perspirant which is also pretty damned good at keeping you dry. Other brands like Simple or Sanex work as well. Indian disposable razors aren't all that reliable, so this is something you'll want to take from home if you don't want a beard or hairy legs. Take your usual brand of shaving cream too, as skin can react to changes in this kind of product, particularly if temperatures are higher and your skin is out of condition.
Bedding/Towels and Bath Plugs/Mosquito Nets
Some guides or sites tell you that simple cotton bedding, mosquito nets, a towel and bath plugs are useful. I'm not sure why because unless you're planning to sleep outdoors or in a ditch, even the most basic places have some provision in this area. My advice? If you feel you need to isolate yourself from Indian bedding take a simple cotton or silk sleeping bag liner. You can always improvise a plug with a paper towel (you won't be taking many baths in India) and you will be able to buy those fantastic thin towels (Malabar Towels) when you arrive. They're like giant tea towels but much lighter and they pack down well, rinse out easily and dry fast. If you are going to bring something in the way of a towel, look for a small, super absorbent micro fibre towel. These are sold in outdoor sports or camping shops and aren't expensive.
My final piece of advice is to always take a small, powerful torch. I use a compact head torch with an adjustable band as this leaves my hands free, useful if walking along a dark country road full of potholes. An alternative would be a small but powerful Maglite style torch. Torches are really useful if you're exploring the darker corners of old forts and temples as you'd miss some great stuff if you didn't.
In India, despite what everyone thinks how you dress definitely counts. I'm not a shorts wearer anyway, so this makes it a bit easier for me. I almost live in polo shirts and cargo pants whilst I'm in India although I'll usually take a couple of long sleeved cotton shirts and a pair of decent shoes just in case I am staying in a good hotel or meeting up with smart Indian friends.
All the guide books will warn against shorts and anything sleeveless: you will be denied entry to some temples and are almost certain to be excluded from Gudwaras and Mosques if you're not properly dressed. The prejudice of shorts as clothing for poor seems to have died out in most places, but its always useful to have a pair of chinos or cargo pants in case.
What I take and the policy of disposability.....
Cargo pants are a godsend, I've got a three or four pairs of tough cotton ones from M&S and they have good sized side pockets and a concealed zip pocket at the hip. Cargo pants come in useful for wandering around urban areas where you don't have to take a small rucksack as you can usually fit a camera and book in the side pockets. I also take tops or shirts that don't cost a lot. Often they're from Primark so if you're struggling for room to bring things home you can leave them in India (believe me the housekeeper will make good use of them). The big no-no is synthetics. They make you sweat and I once travelled with a guy who ended up with infected rashes from wearing synthetic football shirts...be warned.
Buying Clothes in India
Its funny because I often see westerners wandering around in Kurta Pyjama or women in Salwar Kameez and wonder what Indians think of us in traditional clothes. I once went to a wedding in a borrowed Sherwani suit and spent the whole time feeling self conscious. I have a sneaky suspicion that its easier to carry off if you're between 18 and 25, but harder if you're older, particularly for men. On the whole though, good quality light cotton shirts and loose cotton trousers are really cheap and there are shops selling high quality western clothing too, although these tend to not be much cheaper than home. I did once buy a short kurta and some loose cotton trousers to bring home, but have never worn them. In this sense, Indian clothes are a bit like local drinks you love on holiday; they always seem much better abroad and are never the same if you try them at home!
Laundry
One of the reasons you can afford to take less is that even the cheapest hotels or hostels will have some form of laundry service which is useful if you want to pack minimally. A few words of caution though, in rural areas laundry really will be done in the river with basic soaps and dried on the ground or on bushes and trees. For this reason I tend to avoid white jersey (T shirt) type fabrics as if they tend to end up the colour of the water they're washed in and they never come clean again. Similarly, synthetics don't stand up well to traditional washing and can look a bit battered on return. Bigger hotels use commercial machines so its better to wait until you have access to these for anything you truly value. Another thing to watch for is starch, Indians love to starch a nice white shirt and then iron it until its as stiff and shiny as glossy plastic. Not comfortable to wear and it often ruins a good shirt so make sure you give clear instructions if you don't want starch.
Shoes are tougher.... I tend to take a pair of dark trainers for walking and doing the sights, but also usually take a pair of suede desert boots for going out to restaurants or to meet friends. I also take a pair of comfortable leather flip flops in case its just too hot for shoes, but I'd never attempt spending the day in them, particularly if I'm going to be walking any distance.
Toiletries
You need to remember that urban India has plenty of supermarkets and there are lots of recognisable brands. Airports will also have shops in arrival halls, so if you don't want to take much or have forgotten something, you should be OK. Rural are are more difficult, but in fairness, no-one really cares if you look a bit damp or smell a bit sweaty.
One thing you will want to make sure you take is sun cream. I think this is quite a personal thing. I've tried and struggled to get high factor sun block in India outside of big urban areas and its even harder to find recognisable brands with insect repellent. As a consequence I tend to take a fairly big bottle of Boots Soltan (a 200ml bottle should last you 2-3 weeks dependent on the UV factor - I tend to take 50 and still get tanned) with insect repellent. This really seems to work for me although I do take a small can of 50% Deet for my feet and/or legs.
As insects are drawn to scented products, I also use Boots Expert odourless anti-perspirant which is also pretty damned good at keeping you dry. Other brands like Simple or Sanex work as well. Indian disposable razors aren't all that reliable, so this is something you'll want to take from home if you don't want a beard or hairy legs. Take your usual brand of shaving cream too, as skin can react to changes in this kind of product, particularly if temperatures are higher and your skin is out of condition.
Bedding/Towels and Bath Plugs/Mosquito Nets
Some guides or sites tell you that simple cotton bedding, mosquito nets, a towel and bath plugs are useful. I'm not sure why because unless you're planning to sleep outdoors or in a ditch, even the most basic places have some provision in this area. My advice? If you feel you need to isolate yourself from Indian bedding take a simple cotton or silk sleeping bag liner. You can always improvise a plug with a paper towel (you won't be taking many baths in India) and you will be able to buy those fantastic thin towels (Malabar Towels) when you arrive. They're like giant tea towels but much lighter and they pack down well, rinse out easily and dry fast. If you are going to bring something in the way of a towel, look for a small, super absorbent micro fibre towel. These are sold in outdoor sports or camping shops and aren't expensive.
My final piece of advice is to always take a small, powerful torch. I use a compact head torch with an adjustable band as this leaves my hands free, useful if walking along a dark country road full of potholes. An alternative would be a small but powerful Maglite style torch. Torches are really useful if you're exploring the darker corners of old forts and temples as you'd miss some great stuff if you didn't.
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